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Imagine putting on an excruciatingly tight vest stiffened with whalebones and steel rods that poke into your torso, holding your upper body in an unnatural, agonizing position. Does this sound like some kind of medieval torture device? Not quite. In the early part of the 20th century, women’s undergarments were barbarous, awkward and very unhealthy for the wearer.

Enter Mary Phelps Jacob, a young New York socialite who became exasperated with the antiquated corsets after finding it impossible to prevent the support rods from poking out from underneath the fabric of her evening gown. Determined to create a more comfortable, less cumbersome alternative, Jacob took two silk handkerchiefs and, with help from her maid, sewed them together using some pink ribbon and cord.

The resulting undergarment was soft and light, and it conformed to the wearer’s anatomy far more naturally than the traditional corsets. Soon requests poured in from family, friends and even strangers, all of whom wanted to purchase the new accessory. Recognizing the immense potential of her invention, Jacob quickly patented the "Backless Brassiere" and began selling the units under the name "Caresse Crosby."

Jacob's design was the first brassiere to enjoy widespread use, but its popularity did not peak until World War I, when the U.S. government requested that women stop purchasing corsets in order to conserve metal. Unfortunately, Jacob had by that time sold her invention patent to the Warner Brothers Corset Company, which proceeded to market the most popular brassiere in the country over the next 30 years. However, even though Mary Phelps Jacob never received many accolades for her invention, she had, by the time of her death in 1970, observed with satisfaction as her immensely popular undergarment made life more comfortable and more convenient for millions of grateful women.

Frequently Asked Questions About Mary Phelps Jacob

Who was Mary Phelps Jacob?

Mary Phelps Jacob was an American woman who invented the modern bra. Her idea changed women’s clothing by offering a comfortable and practical alternative to the restrictive corsets that were common at the time.

What did Mary Phelps Jacob invent?

She invented a form of women’s undergarment that used ribbons and fabric cups to support the bust without heavy boning or corset structure. This design eventually became the foundation for the modern bra.

Why is Mary Phelps Jacob’s invention important?

Her design gave women a more comfortable, flexible, and less restrictive option for support. This was especially significant at a time when women’s fashion was changing and they needed more freedom of movement.

How did Mary Phelps Jacob come up with the idea?

She wanted an undergarment that worked well under a sheer evening gown. Traditional corsets were bulky and visible under fine fabrics, so she crafted something lighter and more discreet using handkerchiefs and ribbons.

When did Mary Phelps Jacob patent her invention?

She received a patent for her design in the early 20th century. That protection helped her establish her idea legally before others began producing similar garments.

Was her bra design immediately popular?

Her design caught on quickly because it solved a real problem for women who were ready for an alternative to corsets. Over time it was adapted and improved, eventually becoming a standard undergarment in women’s wardrobes.

Did Mary Phelps Jacob do anything else besides invent a bra?

Her main contribution to fashion and invention history is her bra design. By addressing a basic need with a simple yet effective solution, she left a lasting mark on clothing design.

What was the social impact of her invention?

The shift from corsets to lighter undergarments was part of a larger change in women’s roles and fashion in the early 20th century. Her design supported that evolution by giving women more choice and comfort in everyday life.

How can I learn more about Mary Phelps Jacob?

You can explore fashion histories, biographies of women inventors, museum exhibits on clothing and society, and educational resources that describe how her invention influenced garments in the decades that followed.